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Thread: Trouble with Cuddeback E2 model

  1. #1
    Junior Member
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    Oct 2016
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    Brandon, Mississippi
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    Trouble with Cuddeback E2 model

    I own 5 Cuddeback E2 cameras. All work fine except for the blurred pics at night time on all of them, which I'm aggravated with but accept it as a fact of life. But one has me puzzled. It works....but when it takes the first pic it won't stop snapping pics. It keeps snapping until it runs out of batteries or uses up the memory in an SD card. Anybody got any ideas about this?

  2. #2
    Senior Member
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    Feb 2012
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    Oklahoma
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    Sounds like maybe there's a problem in the PIR (motion detection) circuitry. I would fire off an email to customer support and see what they have to say. Is the camera still under warranty?

    As far as the motion blur at night, there are a some things you can do to help minimize it (not eliminate it) if you don't mind being flexible with your setup. Motion blur is caused by too slow (long) a shutter speed. If you aim your camera in a direction that provides reflective feedback of the flash to the camera from brush, etc. it will typically cause the camera's shutter speed to adjust to a faster setting and help minimize motion blur. The closer the reflective brush is (say 30ft or closer) and the more it is located in the lower part of the center of the frame the more it will effect the shutter speed.

    Another thing that controls the shutter speed is the power setting of the IR emitters. As your batteries dwindle down, the camera will push less and less juice to the IR's to help conserve energy, so late in the battery life you will be losing flash intensity and that will result in longer shutter speeds to account for the reduced flash. This throttling down of the IR power is controlled by the battery voltage available, so due to the nature of lithium batteries, they are hands down the best to avoid this problem... Lithiums hold a higher voltage right up to their end of life. Alkalines are OK but not as good as lithiums and rechargeables are the worst.

    And yet another thing you can do, if you haven't already, is load the latest version of the firmware (v.4.1.0) so you can take advantage of the new IR modes it provides. The new IR modes are "Close", "Far" and "Field". The Close mode is intended to be used at 30ft or less and is equivalent to what you've been using with any other previous firmware version; the Far mode is intended to be used for target distances greater than 30ft or so; and the Field mode is intended to be used over open fields at all ranges. The major difference between the Close mode and the Far and Field modes is how they set the shooting parameters (shutter speed and ISO) and how the images are processed. In Far and Field mode the camera is programed to cut either the ISO or more usually the shutter speed by a little more than 1/2 and the contrast in the image processing is held very low. This will result in an image with much less motion blur but at the expense of a somewhat flat looking picture (an entirely useful image but not as much punch as it would have normally). You can always bump the contrast a little after the fact, but it's not really necessary. The important thing is that it really helps control the motion blur by reducing the shutter speed. So even though the Far mode is meant for ranges beyond 30ft, I now use it all the time for all ranges to get the benefit of the reduced motion blur and on the occasion where I get a really nice picture it's easy to bump the contrast to polish it off. On the other hand, there is nothing you can do to a picture eaten up with motion blur to make it good!

    So the long and the short is that a little care in how you choose your setup and which camera settings you select can go a long way towards helping reduce motion blur.

    Hope this helps you some and if I haven't written this clearly enough or you're confused by my ramblings, I'll be happy to try to explain it again in better way.
    Last edited by FredG; 10-03-2016 at 09:28 PM.

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